I got a good deal on some DE tires Conti/Hoosiers. Who can tell me about them?

[FASTFATBOY]

I was on the board years ago, I was banned. I would like to take this opportunity to apologize for my actions.

I have since become a DE fanatic and am now an instructor for DE drivers.

A little background first.

Car is a 99 Z28, not many run this platform for whatever reason. I am on the FRRAX board and there is a TON of knowledge on this platform there....I read there often.

Car is a street car that gets DE time, more and more as the DE "infection" gets worse.

Has 385 rwhp and weighs 3800lbs on track, all stock suspension arms on front with slotted lowers for more camber. UMI Roto Joints in the rear. C6 Vette base model brakes with ducts and Raybestos pads.

Koni shocks, Strano 550/150 springs, 35MM front bar stock 19 rear bar.

I ran junk street tires for my first 3 events, then went to the NT-05 for 2 years(about 8-10 events).

I decided it was time to step up in tires, SO I bought a set of Old stock BFG R1's off E bay, was a good deal at $550 shipped for a set that were 4 years old. Tires are amazing compared to the NT-05, at NOLA Motorsports park I am 4 seconds a lap faster on them, the wear rate so far is good.....16 sessions and have probably that many more in them(at least 8 more)as far as tread goes...heat cycle out I have no idea. Grip is still as good as the day they went on the car.

Ok, with that out of the way. Some buddies who BMW club race had 17 of these tires. I bought them all for a good deal, they have been in temp controlled shop in black bags there whole lives.

I called Hoosier and they said they are the " R3-S03" compound tire that are 4 years or so old and they would be fine for DE duty.

Who has run this tire?

How do they differ from the BFG R1's I have been running?

Pressure starting points?

Things I should look out for or a "heads up" on dont do this or that?

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]


Any input welcome.

Thanks in advance.

[Patrick Olsen]

No real productive input, just that those are different than the current generation of Continental/Hoosiers. I've run a set of the newer style on my CTS-V - they don't have any tread at all, they're slicks (although they're supposed to be the same as Hoosier R6s, just without the 2 grooves).

So, I don't know what the older ones like, but on my car the newer style seem to like hot pressures in the 32-34# range. I had to start them out with really low cold pressures to keep them from going off too much once I got them warmed up during a session.

[MarkMc26]

From my conversations with a Hoosier rep, these CTSCC tires are made from a slightly harder compound than Hoosier R6s. He did not mention anything about the R3-S03 compound. I bought a used set of 275/35-18 take-offs (1 heat cycle, allegedly) from Turner Motorsport after the Rolex 24 weekend in January 2011 and finally got around to using them on my own car in October 2013 after a 3-year driving hiatus, and they seemed to work fine (although the driver was pure shit). However, they didn't work nearly as well as the fresh 255/35-18 R6 "cheaters" I last used in 2010, as I was 2 seconds off my personal best at Sebring (2:38 CTSCC in 2013 vs 2:36 R6s in 2010).

Per NASA Time Trial rules, these are considered to be the same compound as Hoosier R6s, based on +10 points (even though Hoosier said this is not the case). I unsuccessfully lobbied to get the CTSCC tires bumped down to a +9 point compound a few months ago. But, since I can get a set of 4 take-offs for much less than the cost of a single new Hoosier R6 or A6 (and the retarded spending contest that goes with them), I'll just stick to the CTSCC take-offs for more affordable track use (at the expense of not being competitive with the "new set of A6s every weekend" crowd). I have another set that I bought on the cheap from Rehagen Racing in January 2012, which will likely be used after 1 more weekend on the old Turner set (which I have put 8 heat cycles on, and will probably heat cycle out before wearing out).

Mark

[blainefab]

I was using R3S03s on my Camaro back when I was racing ITE, it was last on track in 2003. It weighed about 3300# on grid. As I recall, I ended up running them at 26-28psi cold. At higher starting pressures they would turn in nice and crisp, but turn to grease mid race.

I also had a client that had a couple of sets of the Grand AM Cup Hoosiers for his HPDE/TT C5 Vette - I stored them at the shop and transported them to and from the track. I think they were stamped GAC on the sidewall but otherwise looked like the R3S03. He wasn't all that happy with the tires, I'm not sure he used them all up before moving on to something else.

What date code is stamped on the sidewall? I suspect that they are way over 4yrs old.

[Damn True]

Any input welcome.

Thanks in advance.

How about adding your actual name to your sig?

[Boo Boo Foo]

How about adding your actual name to your sig?

Gold!

[FASTFATBOY]

How about adding your actual name to your sig?

You first.

[FASTFATBOY]

I was using R3S03s on my Camaro back when I was racing ITE, it was last on track in 2003. It weighed about 3300# on grid. As I recall, I ended up running them at 26-28psi cold. At higher starting pressures they would turn in nice and crisp, but turn to grease mid race.

I also had a client that had a couple of sets of the Grand AM Cup Hoosiers for his HPDE/TT C5 Vette - I stored them at the shop and transported them to and from the track. I think they were stamped GAC on the sidewall but otherwise looked like the R3S03. He wasn't all that happy with the tires, I'm not sure he used them all up before moving on to something else.

What date code is stamped on the sidewall? I suspect that they are way over 4yrs old.

Alan on the opposite side of the Continental stamp it appears the "Hoosier" and a few other things have been ground off the sidewall.

I found this

6J5N is this what you're looking for? This number also appears under the bar code on the sticker of the tires.

[FASTFATBOY]

From my conversations with a Hoosier rep, these CTSCC tires are made from a slightly harder compound than Hoosier R6s. He did not mention anything about the R3-S03 compound. I bought a used set of 275/35-18 take-offs (1 heat cycle, allegedly) from Turner Motorsport after the Rolex 24 weekend in January 2011 and finally got around to using them on my own car in October 2013 after a 3-year driving hiatus, and they seemed to work fine (although the driver was pure shit). However, they didn't work nearly as well as the fresh 255/35-18 R6 "cheaters" I last used in 2010, as I was 2 seconds off my personal best at Sebring (2:38 CTSCC in 2013 vs 2:36 R6s in 2010).

Per NASA Time Trial rules, these are considered to be the same compound as Hoosier R6s, based on +10 points (even though Hoosier said this is not the case). I unsuccessfully lobbied to get the CTSCC tires bumped down to a +9 point compound a few months ago. But, since I can get a set of 4 take-offs for much less than the cost of a single new Hoosier R6 or A6 (and the retarded spending contest that goes with them), I'll just stick to the CTSCC take-offs for more affordable track use (at the expense of not being competitive with the "new set of A6s every weekend" crowd). I have another set that I bought on the cheap from Rehagen Racing in January 2012, which will likely be used after 1 more weekend on the old Turner set (which I have put 8 heat cycles on, and will probably heat cycle out before wearing out).

Mark

Thanks Mark, this is what I am looking for.

David.

[FASTFATBOY]

No real productive input, just that those are different than the current generation of Continental/Hoosiers. I've run a set of the newer style on my CTS-V - they don't have any tread at all, they're slicks (although they're supposed to be the same as Hoosier R6s, just without the 2 grooves).

So, I don't know what the older ones like, but on my car the newer style seem to like hot pressures in the 32-34# range. I had to start them out with really low cold pressures to keep them from going off too much once I got them warmed up during a session.

Thanks Pat, I appreciate it.

[MarkMc26]

You may not find a date code on these non-DOT tires.

As for the Hoosier stamp being scraped off, do some Googling to figure out when Continental became the series sponsor. Early in that season, the existing inventory of Hoosier-labeled tires was modified to show Continental as the "tire supplier."

Mark

[FASTFATBOY]

You may not find a date code on these non-DOT tires.

As for the Hoosier stamp being scraped off, do some Googling to figure out when Continental became the series sponsor. Early in that season, the existing inventory of Hoosier-labeled tires was modified to show Continental as the "tire supplier."

Mark

I found this

Continental and Hoosier entered an agreement at the end of last season to make the same tire until 2011. There were lots of Hoosiers left after the name-change. The Hoosier tires had the logos ground off and were replaced with Continental painted-on lettering. Most of the re-branded Continentals are gone, and the new tires are 100% Continental with new molds.

They grip about the same as an R6 but last longer.

And this

KONI became series sponsor for the start of the 2007 season when the series became known as the KONI Challenge Series, before renaming once more prior to the start of the 2009 season as the KONI Sports Car Challenge. The series name was once again changed for the 2010 season.

The Continental Challenge was the support series for Grand-Am's premier offering, the Rolex Sports Car Series.

And one more

Continental Tire has announced it will be both the title sponsor and official tire of the Grand-Am Sports Car Challenge Road Racing Series in 2010. It will replace Hoosier as the official tire supplier in 2009. However, Continental Tire recently struck a cooperative deal with Hoosier tires, which will probably see the series remain on tires similar to the Hoosier product

So 2010 you think?

[Damn True]

You first.

My name IS True.

Is "fastfatboy" on your birth certificate binky?

[FASTFATBOY]

My name IS True.

Is "fastfatboy" on your birth certificate binky?

It might be.

I posted my first name in a reply in this post.

We going on a date or something?

[Damn True]

Second time through an d you still haven't read the rules.

This stay should be brief as well

[FASTFATBOY]

You may not find a date code on these non-DOT tires.

As for the Hoosier stamp being scraped off, do some Googling to figure out when Continental became the series sponsor. Early in that season, the existing inventory of Hoosier-labeled tires was modified to show Continental as the "tire supplier."

Mark

Thanks Mark

David

[FASTFATBOY]

Second time through an d you still haven't read the rules.

This stay should be brief as well

I went to the Wiki page and there is nothing there. The one that tells you to "click here" before you do anything else.

Past that, I won't bite this time.

Have a great weekend, enjoy the super bowl.

My name is David, nice to meet you True.

[Roush #92]

I run those tires at 39 psi hot on my 3250lb Foxbody.
Below 38 they feel mushy to me. Above 40psi and they lose grip.

[FASTFATBOY]

I run those tires at 39 psi hot on my 3250lb Foxbody.
Below 38 they feel mushy to me. Above 40psi and they lose grip.

Thanks Roush.

How do the tires compare to others you have run?

[trackbird]

It might be.

I posted my first name in a reply in this post.

We going on a date or something?

David, do me a favor, throw your name in your sig and knock it off.

Second time through and you still haven't read the rules.

This stay should be brief as well

I don't usually do this. David is on frrax (as he stated) and we got off to a bit of a bumpy start over there too. Once things settled down, he's actually a proper track junkie and a pretty good guy.

As for how the rest of this visit goes...I guess we'll see...

I now return you to your regularly scheduled discussion...

[FASTFATBOY]

David, do me a favor, throw your name in your sig and knock it off.




I don't usually do this. David is on frrax (as he stated) and we got off to a bit of a bumpy start over there too. Once things settled down, he's actually a proper track junkie and a pretty good guy.

As for how the rest of this visit goes...I guess we'll see...

I now return you to your regularly scheduled discussion...

Thanks Kevin

Done.

[Don Hann]

How about adding your actual name to your sig?

You first.

Fuckin' awesome.


That said... having my real name associated with a website (any website really, I use Willy McCoy on facebook, M1Combat damn near everywhere else) is about the only rule and/or suggestion I disagree with.

[FASTFATBOY]

Fuckin' awesome.


That said... having my real name associated with a website (any website really, I use Willy McCoy on facebook, M1Combat damn near everywhere else) is about the only rule and/or suggestion I disagree with.

Thanks Don.

It was a concern of mine also, I am not into board "cliques" I am here to learn.

[Roush #92]

How do the tires compare to others you have run?

It's been a while. I'm just in this for fun so I've been running Conti/Koni series closeouts for years.

I don't think they're as quick as regular R6 or Hankook C51's. Certainly not as sticky as Hankook C71's. That's pretty much the only tires I've run.

Wear rate is excellent, heat cycling is fair. They'll be hard as a rock before you cord them.

[FASTFATBOY]

It's been a while. I'm just in this for fun so I've been running Conti/Koni series closeouts for years.

I don't think they're as quick as regular R6 or Hankook C51's. Certainly not as sticky as Hankook C71's. That's pretty much the only tires I've run.

Wear rate is excellent, heat cycling is fair. They'll be hard as a rock before you cord them.

Do your tires have the little bit of tread on them mine have? How long before that burns off into a slick?

Was curious as to how they compare to the 4 year old BFG R1's I am on now.

Thanks Steve.

[fair]

Per NASA Time Trial rules, these are considered to be the same compound as Hoosier R6s, based on +10 points (even though Hoosier said this is not the case). I unsuccessfully lobbied to get the CTSCC tires bumped down to a +9 point compound a few months ago. But, since I can get a set of 4 take-offs for much less than the cost of a single new Hoosier R6 or A6 (and the retarded spending contest that goes with them), I'll just stick to the CTSCC take-offs for more affordable track use (at the expense of not being competitive with the "new set of A6s every weekend" crowd). ...

Mark

Yes, this is good advice. The Time Trial R6 -> A6 tire wars have gotten pretty nuts. Even in the numbered TT classes we mostly use A6 tires, which are far quicker than things like the Continental GT slicks (which would cost me a staggering 0.4 weight/power ratio hit). "Real slicks" tend to have a longer interval for fast laps compared to the A6, which is done after 2-3 laps, but it doesn't always work out well in Time Trial. Some of the faster TT1 cars in our area will use Pirelli or Michelin slicks, but they take 2-3 laps to come up to temp, and with a large TT field the front of the TT pack is often catching the slower cars (TTD-TTE) by lap the start of 3, so its a gamble.



We just did a "tire test" (same day, same car, same driver, lots of laps on both sets of tires) with our TT3 car on the 320/650/18 Continental "real slicks" vs some used 315 A6 tires at Eagles Canyon Raceway (2.5 mile road course. The Contis were brand new, the A6 set had 3 race weekends on them and were far from fresh, both sets were mounted to identical 18x12" wheels. In the end the Contis were 3 second slower than the old A6s (which were 2 seconds off their new/fresh pace two months before at the same track).



We tried a range of pressures but just couldn't get any heat in these "endurance" tires on that 60°F day. Needless to say I'll take old A6s over fresh Conti slicks for use in NASA TT.


The Contis the OP has look like a great HPDE tire, just don't expect them to be setting any track records or beating a new R6 (or A6). But if you got a good deal on them, just smile and drive.



For comparison at the track you mentioned, our 3770 pound Mustang (with driver) with a stock engine ran a 1:50.535 at NOLA's 2.75 CW course last year on sticker Hoosier A6 tires (video of that lap shown above). Don't know if that compares at all with your Camaro times at NOLA, just a piece of data from another heavy stick axle pony car. This was done before we had a real splitter/front aero work, just the wing (and it was pushy at speed!).



The car also set FTD at an autocross held that same day in one of NOLA's parking lots. This is where the A6 really shines - and its one of those fluke things that works well in Time Trial and Autocross. They come up to temperature FAST, and the A6 tires are very grippy, but also very temperamental - they were good for 2 laps at NOLA on the big course, then they got too hot, turned to goo, and lost 1 second for each successive lap. I've seen that stickers are worth 1.5-2 seconds a lap over identical sets of used tires/scrub A6s. We can't always afford to race on stickers, of course, and mostly only get them when we can win a set.

For what that is worth... dunno, might not mean squat.

Cheers,

[FASTFATBOY]

Thanks Terry, as usual a killer post.

My best at NOLA is a 2:01.56 in my street car on 4 year old BFG R1's. No aero at all and no real brakes to speak of(stock C6 Vette stuff). I am hoping for a 1:59.9999 as that's my goal. I am over slowing the car when my brain starts to reach it's limit....I am working on that.

I bought all 17 tires for a good bit less than a new set of R6's, all are new and have been in climate control.


Terry you have a PM.

[fair]

My best at NOLA is a 2:01.56 in my street car on 4 year old BFG R1's. No aero at all and no real brakes to speak of(stock C6 Vette stuff). I am hoping for a 1:59.9999 as that's my goal. I am over slowing the car when my brain starts to reach it's limit....I am working on that.

I bought all 17 tires for a good bit less than a new set of R6's, all are new and have been in climate control.


Terry you have a PM.

No worries. Just replied with my critique of your laps. If you live near NOLA count yourself lucky. That is one amazing facility, track, and location. We're going to be there with NASA Sept 20-21st, and I might be instructing that weekend - let me know if you are going and what group you run HPDE. Even if you run HPDE3 I can probably sneak in some sessions with you, too, and I always give a ride-along in the TT Warm-up (first TT session) on Saturday.



A 2:01 isn't shabby but that car can run 1:57's or quicker from what I've seen in your videos, with just some driving changes. Stay off the curbs at T6 and T16 (the curbing at NOLA is frakkin BRUTAL!), brake later at the end of all of the big straights, change your line in T3-T4 to optimize corner exit for T4, and don't ever coast.

Cheers,

[Casey_Brown]

We just did a "tire test" (same day, same car, same driver, lots of laps on both sets of tires) with our TT3 car on the 320/650/18 Continental "real slicks" vs some used 315 A6 tires at Eagles Canyon Raceway (2.5 mile road course. The Contis were brand new, the A6 set had 3 race weekends on them and were far from fresh, both sets were mounted to identical 18x12" wheels. In the end the Contis were 3 second slower than the old A6s (which were 2 seconds off their new/fresh pace two months before at the same track).

Which compound were the Continental slicks? GT-I? GT-R? GT-O? A local auto-x'er is killing everyone on GT-Rs.

[FASTFATBOY]

No worries. Just replied with my critique of your laps. If you live near NOLA count yourself lucky. That is one amazing facility, track, and location. We're going to be there with NASA Sept 20-21st, and I might be instructing that weekend - let me know if you are going and what group you run HPDE. Even if you run HPDE3 I can probably sneak in some sessions with you, too, and I always give a ride-along in the TT Warm-up (first TT session) on Saturday.



A 2:01 isn't shabby but that car can run 1:57's or quicker from what I've seen in your videos, with just some driving changes. Stay off the curbs at T6 and T16 (the curbing at NOLA is frakkin BRUTAL!), brake later at the end of all of the big straights, change your line in T3-T4 to optimize corner exit for T4, and don't ever coast.

Cheers,

I will do my best to be there that weekend.

[weargle]

Your penchant for clicking the "new thread" button rather than the "search" button apparently hasn't changed a lick.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32202

Feeling a Thai green curry simmer sauce tonight.

[Patrick Olsen]

Your penchant for clicking the "new thread" button rather than the "search" button apparently hasn't changed a lick.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32202

So I assume that link will take me to a thread about what tire pressures others have found work with the Continental take-offs?

[Justfloatn]

So I assume that link will take me to a thread about what tire pressures others have found work with the Continental take-offs?

If it does it happens after the first page. Too much drama. I could not read any more...

[blackbolt9]

So, I don't know what the older ones like, but on my car the newer style seem to like hot pressures in the 32-34# range. I had to start them out with really low cold pressures to keep them from going off too much once I got them warmed up during a session.

Patrick, how did you determine that was the best hot pressure range? Lap time? Time temps?

I wasn't the tire guy but when running these tires in Koni/CTSCC I remember being closer to these numbers, which were suggested by Hoosier/Continental workers at the track:

As I recall, I ended up running them at 26-28psi cold.

Which seemed to come out around

I run those tires at 39 psi hot on my 3250lb Foxbody.

We tried a range of pressures but just couldn't get any heat in these "endurance" tires on that 60°F day. Needless to say I'll take old A6s over fresh Conti slicks for use in NASA TT.

What was your range of pressures?

We used to run a rather high pressure for qualifying, which would mean they were at operating pressure (not temp) by lap 2 or 3. After that they were over pressure and drove like shit, so if you didn't have a quick time by lap 4 you might as well come in anyways. Either way, lap times on the "cold" tires at the correct pressure weren't that far off (if any at all) from a hot tire and the correct pressure. They seemed to be more pressure dependent than temperature, as far as lap times went. Many times we would actually see tires that had been heat cycled at least once being faster as well. This includes cold track days, including a weekend at Daytona where we made snowmen on the pit wall.

The compound is quite different than the A6, and nowhere near as fast, but they last ALOT longer, which is why I think they make a great learning/HPDE tire. They are closer to the R6 and much more consistent over time (say a 30 minute session) which IMO helps make learning to drive easier since you have one less variable to learn to drive around. Also, they can be found used for cheap, which is an added bonus for track day/HDPE guys looking to have fun and learn.

[FASTFATBOY]

Patrick, how did you determine that was the best hot pressure range? Lap time? Time temps?

I wasn't the tire guy but when running these tires in Koni/CTSCC I remember being closer to these numbers, which were suggested by Hoosier/Continental workers at the track:



Which seemed to come out around





What was your range of pressures?

We used to run a rather high pressure for qualifying, which would mean they were at operating pressure (not temp) by lap 2 or 3. After that they were over pressure and drove like shit, so if you didn't have a quick time by lap 4 you might as well come in anyways. Either way, lap times on the "cold" tires at the correct pressure weren't that far off (if any at all) from a hot tire and the correct pressure. They seemed to be more pressure dependent than temperature, as far as lap times went. Many times we would actually see tires that had been heat cycled at least once being faster as well. This includes cold track days, including a weekend at Daytona where we made snowmen on the pit wall.

The compound is quite different than the A6, and nowhere near as fast, but they last ALOT longer, which is why I think they make a great learning/HPDE tire. They are closer to the R6 and much more consistent over time (say a 30 minute session) which IMO helps make learning to drive easier since you have one less variable to learn to drive around. Also, they can be found used for cheap, which is an added bonus for track day/HDPE guys looking to have fun and learn.

Thanks for your input Tom, replies in this post have been great.

[Patrick Olsen]

First, since I didn't provide any details before, this is on my '05 CTS-V, about 4000# with driver (based on advertised curb weight; I've never actually weighed it myself), 275/35-18s. So, a lotta car on (relatively) small tires. The car has TPMS sensors, and I can call up a display with all 4 pressures in the instrument cluster, so it's pretty handy when I'm on track. I rely on those indications rather than pulling into the hot pits to check tire temps, with the understanding that it might not be the most correct way to do things.

Patrick, how did you determine that was the best hot pressure range? Lap time? Tire temps?

So, nothing as scientific as lap times or tire temps, it was just a feel thing. Coming out of the slower corners the car would get noticeably more squirrely trying to put power down if pressure got above about 35#. In the 4/5/5A section at VIR, which is kind of my bellweather for seeing when the tires are getting too hot, I would have to back off a little bit because the car wouldn't hold the line through 5 and 5A (which then screws you up for 6/6A).

That low 30s number was also confirmed by a 911 driver I spoke to while we were both filling up at the gas pump. I noted the bright yellow Continental on the sidewalls and asked what pressures he found worked best. When I commented that I wasn't sure I could safely drop pressures low enough, cold, to get me where he said I should be, hot, he said he was starting at 21-22# cold. That's what I have to do, too.

I think it's worth noting that there are at least 2 varieties of Hoosier/Continental tires, and I don't know how that might play into what pressures people find work for them. The tires David has, with the light tread on there, are (based on what he was told by Hoosier) the older R3-S03. All of the GAC take-offs I've seen at various HPDEs over the past couple years are like the ones I have - no tread, no grooves - and are supposed to be based on the R6. They have "normal" passenger car tire sizing on them - 275/35-18 in my case. I don't know if the old R3s and the current R6s like the same sort of pressures.

I've also seen Continental slicks that have race tire sizing on them, which apparently is what Terry was testing (320/650-18). I don't know what the difference is between those "real slicks" and the "DOT R-compounds that have been turned into non-DOT slicks by removing the 2 grooves" that I have.

[FASTFATBOY]

On the BFG R1's I am running I start the session with 33F/29R both ends come up to 37-38 by the end of the session. It feels the best runs the best laptimes(for where I am in ability) like this.


I should start in the high 20's and work from there?

[47CP]

I've also seen Continental slicks that have race tire sizing on them, which apparently is what Terry was testing (320/650-18). I don't know what the difference is between those "real slicks" and the "DOT R-compounds that have been turned into non-DOT slicks by removing the 2 grooves" that I have.

As far as I can tell, those are a different animal altogether. I mounted some of those for a customer and they are a much different carcass than any of A6-R6-R6 clone that I have messed with before. The rains were even stiffer.

But, I am not 100% sure what model they were, just the sizing was different.

DaveW

[fair]

I've also seen Continental slicks that have race tire sizing on them, which apparently is what Terry was testing (320/650-18). I don't know what the difference is between those "real slicks" and the "DOT R-compounds that have been turned into non-DOT slicks by removing the 2 grooves" that I have.

305/650/18 on 18x11" wheel fits the S197 very well front and rear

The Rolex series Continentals measured like real racing slicks are very different tires than the CTSCC Series Contis that are measured like passenger tires, which are very similar to a DOT Hoosier R6. The DOT type tires have a LOT more steel belts in them and tend to weigh a good bit more. The real racing slicks tend to have the spring rate of the tire measured and marked on each carcass.


The same 305/650/18 on an 11" wide wheel (at left) is much more square than when on 10" wheel (at right)

Which compound were the Continental slicks? GT-I? GT-R? GT-O? A local auto-x'er is killing everyone on GT-Rs.

I really don't know much about these Rolex Contis yet. We have a gaggle of the GT-O compound/series tires, which I have been told were made for the high banks of Daytona and are different both structurally and in compound from the GT-R and other versions.



Don't know what we'll do with these 305 and 320 Contis, but they were such a good deal it was hard to NOT buy them, you know? We've sold a couple of sets and so far everyone has been happy with them. We'll try a 320 set at TWS in March and see if we can make them work with a lot more laps and heat. If anyone has any additional experience with these Rolex series racing slicks - recommended pressures, operating temp range - please feel free to share.

Thanks,

[Roush #92]

Do your tires have the little bit of tread on them mine have? How long before that burns off into a slick?

The tires have what Hoosier calls a 'ghost tread pattern'. It wears off in maybe a couple of days. I didn't pay much attention to it.